Historic Cities # 5 (Gwalior)

Posted by The Great History of Humanity December 28, 2022

Historic Cities # 5 (Gwalior)

Amroul Village, Gwalior

Location of Amroul village and ancient temple sites

Amroul is a mid size village situated some 32 Kilometers from Gwalior towards Bhitarwar-Karera road. The village is around 8 Kilometers from famous Sheetla Mata Temple of Gwalior. The Amroul village is quite interesting villages since it has more than four temple sites belonging to Early Medieval period. It seems the village has been a prominent place in antiquity, perhaps a small town situated at some sort of trade route towards Bhitarwar or might had a religious importance. The elders of the village reckon its old name as "Amrishpuri". In this context, Rameshwar Mahadev Temple evidently confirms its antiquity. An inscription found at Ranod Matha, states pilgrim site as "Aamardak Tirtha", some scholar believe that Amroul is Aamardak Tirtha mentioned in Ranod inscription. Scholars also believe that the name Amroul has some link with the son of Yashodharman, "Aama"

The early temple sites suggest of this place as a host of Shaiva sect as we find not less than two temple ruins and at least 6 large size shivalinga in the vicinity. The architecture insinuates of early Gurjara Pratihara style as well as later Pratihara type.

The extricate carved temples, early architecture style and elaborate ornamentation also indicate the prosperity of the region on account of being a trade center and good agricultural produce in the area on account of perennial water supply from nearby Sindh River. Jain images found here also indicate to the well settled Jain community in the village during medieval period which further alludes to an extensive trade activity.

How to reach : The nearest Railway station from the site is Antri Station which is hardly 14 kms away from the village, Also the nearest Bus stand is located at Antri town from where a private Auto rickshaw can be hired to reach the place.

Ancient antiquities and other building materials have been re-used during construction several modern temples in the village that indicates to the existence of many early medieval temples in the vicinity.

Some Noticeable temples in the Amroul village

Rameshwar Mahadev Temple

Rameshwar Mahadev temple is the most prominent temple in Amroul village located towards north west direction from the village on the other side of the canal.

Google satellite map for Rameshwar Mahadev Temple

The temple has been reconstructed by ASI and the dome of later Muslim period has been completely replaced with the original parts laying nearby. The ASI has also secured 3-4 Acres of surrounding area around the temple premises. As of Now, there is no fee for entry and the temple is open from morning 7 o'clock to 6 o'clock in the evening.

Entry gate to the ASI protected monument

Notice board for ASI Monument Protection Act 1906

Earlier view of the temple with dome before restoration by ASI

The temple after restoration work

As the name suggests the temple is dedicated to the lord Shiva and a Shiva-Linga presides in the Temple's Sanctum sanctorum. There are three more Shiva-Lingas in the vicinity which suggests the existence of at least 3-4 more temples in the past, but at present only one fane is remained standing that too is restored heavily by the Archaeological Survey of India.

Shiva Linga at the entrance before temple

Shiva Linga at the left site (south)

Another Shiva linga ( South Side of the shrine)

There is a large Shivalinga of atleast Human size and approximately 1 foot radius standing at back of the temple towards west direction. This is one huge Shiva-linga also indicate to a large size temple. Villagers believe that this Shivalinga is growing upward to the size of a rice grain every year.

One may imagine size of the Linga here.

We find a number of temple building material here and there in the premises including stone slabs, Amalaka, Votive Temples etc.

We found three such Amalakas laying around nearby.

Other Temple materials

This brick size indicative of its ancient origin

A well ornamented quadrilateral broken pillar, one may see Ghatapallava at the base and a series of bells and wreath in the middle

can one recognize this relief ?

Nearby agriculture farms also yield such heavy stone artefacts. A Farm not far away from temple site in north east direction has yielded another Shiva Linga as well as a heavy door lentil of a Sanctum Sanctorum. As per the Temple Priest Shri Kamal Giri, This Lentil (Sardal) has an inscription on the backside which we could not verify as it was too heavy to move by us. A small stone sculpture is also laying beside this Lentil.

This is a large Shiva-Linga found in the nearby farmland.

Another view of the Shiva-Linga

Heavy door lentil, One may observe flying Garuda in the middle and a row of Vidyadharas from opposite direction carrying wreath in their hands.

The VanaMala (Garland) implies of Vishnu (but it could be Shiva/Surya as well)

Rameshwar Mahadev Temple is one of the finest example of the early Pratihara Nagari Style in Central India. As per popular belief, this temple was build in 8th century in the reign of Nagbhatta - I or Vatsaraja.

Historians and Archaeologists consider Temples constructed by Pratihars in Gwalior region to be the inspiration for the splendid temples built at later ages both in Madhya Pradesh and Rajsthan region.

Gurjar - Pratihara temples are well recognized for their excellent sculpting skills, complex carving and ornamented panels and outstanding sculptures.

Rameshwar Mahadev Temple, explanation by Lokesh Dutt

Temple from East direction

Temple from North

Temple from West direction

Temple from South direction

Rameshwar Mahadev temple has depiction of Lord Shiva, Ganesha, Kartikeya and Penancing Uma devi. Beautiful image panels adorn outer wall and front part has well defined niches depicting Female dancers, musicians, Ashtadikpalas. Walls are decorated with traditional depictions.

Bhadra Niches are filled with the depiction of Shiva family members such as Ganesha, Kartikeya, penancing Uma while Karna Niches are adorned with Dancing Ganas, Instrument playing Ganas, conversing Ganas.

Western Panel show Yama sitting on water buffalo.

Kapili Prakshepana in south-east and north-east direction adorn with Dikapalas like Agni and Ishana.

First Image from Left, Shiva sitting on Nandi carrying a Trident in his left hand

The Niches is in the form of Temple

Nritya rat Ganas

Panchnatas Parvati

This shrine type votive temple has different pattern

Dancing Ganas (look at the ear)

Dhyana Ganas (Meditating)

Kartikeya Feeding Peacock

Yama with his water buffalo

Ganesha

Batuk Bhairava

Agni Deva (Fire God)

Upper part of Shikara ( Vortex) was destroyed over the period of long time, which was rebuilt in late Mughal Period (or Maratha Period) in Dome style, but has been completely restored to its original form by ASI. the carved pieces are visible in two layers.

As you may see small votive shrine going up towards Shikhara

Front Part of the Shikhara is adorned with a deity (not clear)

Uppar part of shrine from East Direction

Full view from North East Direction

Another view from south west

Front door has four branches, first is leaf branch, second is Naga (serpent) branch, third is Roop Shakha Branch or Mithun Shakha (Amourous couple) and fourth is again leaf style branch. Mithun Shakha has Apsaras (celestial females) on both sides and an ascetic. The door is exceptionally wide and ornamentally magnificent as compare to other temples of contemporary Gurjara Pratiharas style.

the temple door jamb has typical depiction of Ganga Jamuna at the bottom. The upper part is adorned with Amorous couple depictions and Sukanasa has two layer ornamentation. middle part prominently depicts flying Garuda carrying Serpent in his hand while both left and right part have series of Vidyadharas (Gandharvas) holding wreath in their hands.

Garbha Griha (Sanctum Sanctorum) door jamb

The door Jamb has typical Nagari style ornamentation

Here we see an ascetic at the top followed by posing Apsaras and then series of amorous couple figures

Depiction of Garuda at Shukanasa in Shiva fane, is to be considered as a regional variation at Gopadri region. Vidhyadharas (Gandharvas) holding wreath can be seen in both left and right directions.

Right side of Door Jamb also depicts an ascetic followed by Apsara feeding peacock then Amorous couples below.

This minute detailing shows Apsara standing on a flower keeping her left hand on peacock and holding something in her right hand (probably some kind of food) to feed peacock is both a marvelous artistry as well as the concept.

In this amorous figure, the Nayaka (Man) holds Nayika (female) in his hands. The Nayika is falling into his hands completely dissolves herself in his close cuddle where lips are interlocked creating a mesmerizing scene of any film. The couples are standing under the tree.

In this scene again both man and woman are standing under the tree. They are well dressed with all that ornaments, the braid of the woman are arranged in very fashionable style. the man is putting his gentle hand on her curvaceous hips, while his right hand in the posture of explaining her something. She is shown as caressing his hair with her right hand. while her left hand is on her waist in "Kati-avalamban Posture", listening to him with proper attention.

The temple does not have Mandapa, it directly has Sanctum sanctorum where Shiva linga is situated.

There we see a stone pillar stump in front of the temple door. This is perhaps upper part of the stone pillar holding the capital, which is evidently broken off from here.

the upper part of the stone stump is visible, this is clearly mortise part.

Inside shrine we see Shivalinga the Jaladhari is facing towards north. (Outlet is in north direction too)

Here we got an opportunity to meet with the Female Priest of the temple, locally known as "Pujarin" with her Grand daughter.

Pujarina worshiping Shiva Linga with her Grand daughter

Upper part of the Stump showing mortise joint

A female devotee from the village dancing infront of the Shrine

Group of female devotees chanting hymns and devotional songs

Dane Baba Temple

Location of Dane Baba Temple in South-East direction

This temple is situated outside Amroul village in south west direction, some 500 meters inside from the road. Just after the Government Dispensary. The temple is in dilapidated condition and Shikhara (Vortex) part is completely fallen down. The front part including Door Jamb, Lentil has gone. there is no sculpture found except some distorted panels. As per the residents of the village the sculptures have been stolen from the site. We could not find the proper evidence to ascertain the presiding deity of the temple, although a Jaladhari (Yoni) part of Shivalinga was found nearby. Some villagers have brought a Linga part but during our inspection this can't fit in the said Jaladhari ( Yoni). There is also a Broken Nandi made of stone placed inside Garbha Griha but its original location can not be fixed. There is no Mandapa and Garbha Griha ( Sanctum Sanctorum) is also gone. As per our estimation the temple is contemporary of Rameshwar Mahadeva Temple, Although some carved relief panels on the outer walls and a Sheshasayi Vishnu panel laying inside temple suggest that it was actually dedicated to the lord Vishnu, but in the absence of any decisive evidence we are not completely certain about the main deity of the temple.

Dane Baba Temple from West direction

Temple from North direction

Temple from East direction

Temple from South direction

View for the Shrine from front

View of the Shrine from front (Right side)

The Garbha Griha (One may see Nandi and Recently blue colour tiled floor

Another view the Shiva Linga is not old but the recent one

Two layers of wall suggest the construction techniques of ancient times

Roof and the Pilaster, Pillar and brackets

It seems the roof might had fallen down in past which was restored without any plan by local villages.

Another overview of the shrine

Top of the Shrine

The Shrine from distance

Looks like part of a bracket

Sheshasayi Vishnu Panel, Can one identify the symbols below ?

Some other stone artefacts in the vicinity

This is a Jaladhari without Shiva Lingam

The artistic KirtiMukha above a niche

Mustard Crop all around

Relief Panel from left. 1, "Kubera" the god of money

Relief Panel from left. 2, "Vayu Deva" God of Wind

Relief Panel from left. 3, "PanchNatas Parvati", Penancing Parvati

Relief Panel from left. 4, "Yamaraja", The god of death

Relief Panel from left. 5, "Surya", The Sun God

Relief Panel from left. 6, "Kartikeya" The god of War

Relief Panel from left. 7, "Indra", The King of all minor gods

Relief Panel from left. 8, "Agni Deva", The god of Fire

Relief Panel from left. 9, "Ganesha", The Elephant God, Son of Shiva

view of a breach between the wall (from above)

The ornamented Water outlet (Mouth of a dragon)

Vaimata Temple

Location of Vaimata Temple site

On the way to Gwalior - Bhitarwar road in the end of Amroal village, there is a small temple on the right side (towards north). This is comparatively small and Modern construction by the side of an agriculture farm. But this temple has numerous small idols (Mostly defaced) fixed all around the temple walls. Old temple material is collected beside the shrine in a heap. Most of the images belong to Parshwnath Jain Tirthankara. No expertise is required to discern that these idols have been victim of iconoclasm, since only face and private parts are hewn off.

Inside temple there is an idol of 3 feet high female deity in pristine condition, although the idol has been coloured very nicely but looking it closely gives us an appearance of Goddess Hariti who is a very familiar deity among Jain pantheon. The goddess is known to villagers as Vemata and worshipped by childless women and those who want to cure their children from disease etc.

Another painted idol of Parshwanath is inside temple and local villagers worshipped him considering a Baba (Saint). According to the owner of the land, Shri Balkishan ji, he has found many other sculptures from his farmland and nearby lands. A sculpture of Mahavir Jain (6 feet) was donated by him to a Jain Family, who have installed the idol in their local Jain fane.

Land owner Shri Balkishan Ji (Left)

Four Faced Jain Idol 1

Four Faced Jain Idol 2

Four Faced Jain Idol 3

Deliberately Beheaded Jaina image

Four Faced Jain Idol 4

Broken part of Jain idol

Deliberately beheaded Jaina Image

Part of Door Jamb

Four sided Jaina Idol

Hood of the Parshwanatha

Gandharva, part of bigger idol

Goddess (Painted) head without torso

Snake hood (Parshwanatha)

Stone artefact

This Vishnu idol perhaps belongs to a Hindu Temple

The habitational mound at left with lots of pottery in the layers

Dharani Mata Temple

Location of Dharani Mata Temple

Just after entering Amroul Village, on the left side just after the Govt School, we happened to see a small modern shrine painted with red colour. This site is comparatively recent construction but it too has many old temple material reused in construction of the wall and the pillars. The nearby resident Mr. Jaddan Singh and Mr. Angad Singh explained to us that this temple is one of the oldest in the village and all newly wedded couple visit this temple inevitably. The temple wall contains Small deity panels (unrecognized), a Sati Stone panel and also reliefs from top of the temple. Both the pillars are part of a door jamb from an old temple. We see a lion image, some broken part of the body, Hand part of a deity carrying Shield also laid unattended in the heap near the temple. The deity inside current temple is comparatively new and we do not see high artistry in the style of sculptures.

Temple lies to the left of the main road of the village, beside Shrine there is a Government school

Front view of the temple

This is a sati stone fixed on the back wall of the temple

Another goddess (unidentified)

This is the piece of the panel generally adorned to the top of temple front

votive panel fixed on the Dharani Mata temple wall

This is a part of a Door Jamb, reused here as a pillar, one can see Ganga/Jamuna at the base and small niches above showing dancing Apsaras (celestial nymphs)